Forget Dora- it’s April-Louise the Explorer
The allure of the unknown has always captivated me, igniting a passion to explore lands & cultures that call out to me—often distant, but not always. In anticipation & like the researcher I have always been, I immerse myself in learning about these places, engaging with those around me who’ve visited, absorbing documentaries, & poring over literature to map out some of my journey once I arrive. Embracing the journey alone doesn’t scare me either. This approach has served me well; since turning 18, I’ve spent extended periods in the United States, Hong Kong, & across the United Kingdom, & I have traversed the globe from Taiwan to Tanzania, France to Finland, & Senegal to South Korea, for education, work, & leisure.
Yet, my recent stay in Jamaica stands apart from my other travels. It’s a land etched into my very essence, a place my spirit has longed to reunite with. Much like a phone that rings incessantly until it’s answered, for a long time, I have felt an irresistible urge to respond to the call to soothe the escalating yearning inside me. Yet, I was uncertain about who or what awaited me on the other end of the line & exactly when I would get the opportunity to return.
My return then is twofold: to advance my research on the project ‘The source of the stream: centring the enslaved Africans who built Penrhyn Castle’; & to inner- &- over-stand my Jamaican roots. Here, the lines between the personal & professional blur, as my heritage deeply informs & enriches my research, lending it a perspective that is uniquely mine.
As I bid farewell to Jamaica after three enriching months, I pen this blog post to share the reflections, emotions, & insights garnered during my precious time there.
Who am I? Reflecting on My Positionality
As I explored the lush landscapes, tasted the flavours of Jamaican cuisine, & engaged with the locals, I found myself contemplating my own identity & positionality, asking myself:
Who am I in this new context?
How do my experiences, background, & perspectives shape my interactions with the history, people & culture of this vibrant island?
To begin with, my arrival in Jamaica was a homecoming of sorts. I arrived as April-Louise, a third-generation Black British woman with Jamaican & Nigerian roots (British Nijam or Jamgerian for short 😉)- I straddle multiple worlds. While England is my first home, Jamaica is also a home to me- & so is Nigeria & Wales where I now live. My Jamaican lineage traces back through my paternal grandparents who relocated to England some 72 years ago. So, I was at least two generations removed from a direct connection to the island, & my Nigerian (Yoruba) heritage added another layer of distance & complexity.
However, having visited Jamaica twice before, being born & raised in London & having lived & studied in various parts of the UK, including Birmingham, coupled with exposure to spaces where Jamaican culture is prominent, the way my parents raised me, & time spent with my paternal grandmother & other family members like my aunt, I still maintained an understanding & awareness of my Jamaican cultural heritage, albeit through a British-English lens.
Secondly, I was visiting Jamaica in my capacity as Dr. Pennant- an academic doing research. This role prompted me to confront my privileges & preconceptions, shaped by years within academia’s ivory towers—a realm often perceived as distancing one from their Black identity & cultural roots as they ascend (I previously wrote about this here). My research fellowship, generously funded by the Leverhulme Trust, & the support of my university, which endorsed my research goals, afforded me the opportunity & resources to undertake this journey.
While I was somewhat of an insider, having familial & ancestral ties to Jamaica & a certain understanding of the culture, I was also an outsider, a British woman & an academic with somewhat weakened connections to Jamaica, there to fulfil specific research objectives. Yet, it was perhaps my academic training & perspective that enabled me to truly appreciate the subtleties of Jamaican life, its people, & the environment, while also examining my own fit within it. These are also key themes I grapple with in my new book which you can find out more about here.
Reflecting on my positionality & how it manifested in reality was at times a challenging process. However, much like Jamaican people’s rich history of adaptation, resistance & resilience which is in my blood too (“wi likkle but wi tallawah!”), it strengthened me & deepened my appreciation for who I am & where I come from. I depart with a sense of belonging that has permeated my very being. There are countless ways to embody Jamaican identity, & I now embrace mine with confidence.
The Power of Connections
My journey in Jamaica has been a profound testament to the strength of connections. It’s remarkable how friends & colleagues from the UK could serve as bridges to new acquaintances in Jamaica, smoothing the transition into unfamiliar surroundings. I’ve witnessed firsthand how past professional ties can flourish, culminating in a visiting fellowship at ACIJ/JMB providing access to previously inaccessible spaces & resources. Colleagues have blossomed into dear friends, enriching my experiences & fostering a sense of community.
On the road, chance encounters led to remarkable experiences. For example, a few phone calls led me to the resting places of some of my ancestors. Connections uncovered local secrets, like where to savour the best Jamaican cuisine, or enjoy live music with breathtaking views. Navigating Jamaica became easier when I was introduced to the Knutsford express, among other discoveries. Even the many Uber drivers that drove me around Kingston each day became my unofficial guides, contributing to my understanding of Jamaica (& life in general!), through their unique perspectives & experiences.
The connections I’ve forged here are as varied as the island’s vibrant ecosystem, serving as a reminder that humanity is intricately interlaced with strands of knowledge, empathy, curiousity, & compassion. Whether dancing at Jamaica’s carnival with friends to absorbing the wisdom of the elders or learning (& practising) the art of mango-eating while getting my hair done, each experience during my three months was enriched by these connections. They were a living embodiment of ‘Ubuntu’ - the South African philosophy that encapsulates the belief, ‘I am because we are’. They were a testament to the transformative power of connections.
Beyond My Research
While my research project was the main catalyst bringing me back to Jamaica, my journey was not solely defined by my research. It was the moments in between - the quiet mornings watching the sunrise, the afternoons spent exploring local markets, the evenings filled with the rhythmic sounds of reggae & dancehall - that truly defined my experience. Being in Jamaica allowed me to immerse myself in a culture rich in history, vibrancy, & resilience.
What was intended as merely ‘year 2’ of my Leverhulme Trust Early Career fellowship in Jamaica unfolded into a narrative of its own, enriching both my research & my life. Beyond the archival & document research or the interviewing & site visits I conducted, I found life in its purest form – in the giggles of children playing in the park, in the sips of my sorrel red stripe, coconut water or fresh sweet juice; in the energising appreciation from admirers; in the chopped sugarcane I bit, sucked & spit, in the wisdom from chance conversations & the resilience & resourcefulness of a people- my people- who embody character, strength & kindness.
Discovering where to take future generations
Jamaica, with its stunning landscapes & rich culture, is a place I would love for my future children to experience. I’ve always said:
“I need to pinpoint the exact locations to take my future children so they can connect with their lineage & heritage.”
During my stay in Jamaica, I’ve re-established a connection with my personal history & heritage, retracing & reinvigorating the almost forgotten paths of previous generations, while forging a new way forward. My dream has finally come to fruition!✨
In fact, I’ve discovered places of wonder, not just for their scenic beauty but for the lessons they hold. From the majestic mountains in Clarendon, to the bustling streets of Kingston, each location is a classroom of life, & I cannot wait to return & bring my future children here to learn from this island teacher.
As the days turned into weeks & months, I mentally marked places—the hidden rivers & streams with crystal-clear waters, the mural-covered walls of Kingston’s art district, the fields where children played, the places where my ancestors lived & worked. I thought to myself:
“These are the places I’ll introduce to my children one day.”
Jamaica has truly etched itself into my heart, & I cannot wait to share its magic with the next generation.
Memorable Moments
This journey has been nothing short of life-changing. It has broadened my horizons, challenged my perceptions, & deepened my understanding of the world while progressing my research project. I leave Jamaica with a suitcase full of memories, a heart full of gratitude, & a mind enriched by so many experiences. Here are three of my most memorable moments:
Groundings with my Sisters: Artivism & Womxn’s Rights in Jamaica Retreat
Participating in the one-day ‘Groundings with my sisters’ retreat to learn about artivism & womxn’s rights movements was a transformative experience. Inspired by the late, great Walter Rodney & organised by Chinelle, Morghan & Rica G., we drove from Kingston to reach Staceyann Chin’s farm, Kindred on the Rock, in the hills of St. Catherine, in the heart of nature. The retreat was a powerful blend of art, activism, & education & I learnt so much about the history of womxn’s rights in Jamaica & key organisations & movements like Sistren & Tambourine Army, who have played major roles.
I really enjoyed engaging with passionate individuals who were using art as a tool for social change & how it can give voice to issues often left unspoken, particularly within a Jamaican context. This intersection of creativity & activism ignited a fire within me, reinforcing the power of collective action & the importance of advocating for fundamental human rights.
I loved being able to paint & interact with nature & this experience has instilled in me a deep respect for artivists & their work.
Bullhead Mountain & being at the centre of Jamaica
The geographical centre of Jamaica is located at the top of Bullhead mountain in North Clarendon. The drive up was an adventure in itself, but reaching the top, the heart of Jamaica, was a truly awe-inspiring moment. The panoramic view of the lush landscape was a sight to behold & a testament to Jamaica’s natural beauty.
Visiting the Maroon Village of Charlestown
Lastly, getting to visit the Maroon village of Charlestown in Portland accompanied by my sister was a poignant reminder of the strength, spirit & legacy of the Windward Maroons. For those that don’t know, the Maroons are descendants of Africans who fought for & won their freedom from the British & have preserved their unique culture & traditions. Their story is a testament to the power of resilience & the human spirit.
We were led by Simone Harris- a Maroon descendant & owner of Sites & Sounds 876 Tours- who curated this journey back to Maroon country which coincided with Charlestown’s 16th Annual International conference & they opened up their community. We went on an intense hike to see the ruins of an old Coffee estate deep in the hills- my favourite part was learning Taino songs & singing them whilst hiking to ease the intensity, & sharing Nigerian & Ghanaian songs with one of the guides & a new friend I made. This was followed by some delicious lunch & enjoyment of the conference festivities. Finally, we ended up cooling down by the river.
I was especially excited to visit a Maroon community as the Maroons’ fierce independence & deep connection to their land & ancestors resonated with me, reminding me of the enduring strength of identity & the importance of preserving one’s heritage.
Each of these experiences has enriched me in its own way, leaving me with memories that I will cherish forever.
From Sunshine to Gloom: Being Back in the UK
As I settle back into life in the UK, the stark differences to Jamaica become clear. I've traded the vibrant colours & near-constant sunshine for the grey gloom of what is supposed to be the British summer time! I think of my grandparents & marvel at how they managed the transition. The UK is so different from Jamaica—almost its complete opposite, with only traces of the British colonial system still evident in certain areas.
However, the contrasts run deeper than just the weather & scenery. The history of British wealth extraction from Jamaica has left lasting impacts. The exploitation of resources & people during colonial times created a legacy of economic disparity & limited opportunities for Jamaicans. The wealth generated from Jamaican plantations & labour significantly contributed to British prosperity, while leaving the island's economy underdeveloped. This legacy still affects Jamaica today, contributing to social & economic challenges that persist long after 'independence'. Witnessing this & seeing the other side is discomforting.
I was away for just three months, but can you imagine being 21 years old or younger, having grown up in Jamaica your entire life, & choosing to come to the UK to build a new life? That takes immense courage!
When my grandparents arrived in England, they faced intense racism & hostility, yet they persevered. They had family back home relying on the money they sent & had to work in undesirable jobs while figuring out how to bring their firstborn child in Jamaica (my uncle) over to England.
Living & researching in Jamaica has deepened my respect & admiration for the sacrifices & struggles my grandparents & that generation endured, all so I could enjoy the 'privileges' of being born in England.
Gratitude & Thanks for the Ancestors
As I reflect on my journey, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the millions of enslaved African people in Jamaica including my ancestors. Their strength, resilience, & spirit are woven into the very fabric of Jamaica. Their stories, told through the music, the food, & their descendants, serve as a constant reminder of where we come from & the power of our roots as Jamaicans.
In this land of wood & water, I found my own roots intertwined with those of many others. I’ve gleaned a small window into my ancestors’ existence- their toil under the scorching sun & their resourcefulness in the face of scarcity. Now, 72 years since my grandparents left Jamaica, I find myself returning as grown woman April-Louise & as Dr. Pennant, with a determined & open heart to retrace, to explore, to document, & to educate others about enslaved African people’s remarkable history & immense contributions to the UK & the world. I am the embodiment of their foresight & their sacrifices. I am their living legacy.
In conclusion, my 3-month journey in Jamaica has been a transformative experience. It has taught me the excitement of (re)discovery, the importance of connection, the beauty of culture, & the power of heritage. As I look back, I am filled with gratitude for this incredible journey.
To God & the ancestors, I offer my deepest thanks for paving the way & for blessing me with this journey.
To everyone that supported & contributed to my journey- God bless you always!
To Jamaica, thank you for being my teacher, my muse, my sanctuary & a truly life-changing experience.
May I & my research continue to bloom like the hibiscus flowers that grace Jamaica’s landscapes. Ase. 🌺🇯🇲✨
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